Michel Barat 2002 Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu
Aromatically closed but beautiful minerality and persistence with a complex texture and fine length. **(*) ...
Mont de Milieu is in some ways the forgotten premier cru as most people are quick to say that Fourchaume and Montee de Tonnerre are the finest. Still Mont de Milieu is capable of matching them. It is bordered on the east by 1er Cru, Pied d’Aloup (Montee de Tonnerre), just past the Grand Crus on the route de Fleys. The vineyard is south facing, bathing its slopes in sunlight for perfect ripeness. Its striking minerality, which is said to hit every part of the tongue (particularly the “bitter” tastebuds”) is its distinguishing characteristic. It is a full-bodied and fragrant wine with a mineral core and hints of gun flint typical of Chablis. The wine possesses ripe, wild fruits and can have a touch of roasted nuances and sous bois. A wine with depth and power, it can be held for seven years or so. At Domaine Billaud-Simon, they suggest that the name of the vineyard derives from “Mont Mieux”, the best hill. This 1er Cru also includes the lieux-dit Vallee de Chigot (not bottled currently).
Aromatically closed but beautiful minerality and persistence with a complex texture and fine length. **(*) ...
Wild fruits with a balanced, powerful, mineral palate. **(*) ...
Not the most complex Mont de Milieu, but zippy acidity and pronounced minerals add interest. * ...